GRILLZ: THE RISING NICHE IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY’ INTERVIEW WITH MELVIN FARIA

Learn how to make grillz
at K2 Academy of Contemporary Jewellery in Central London!

4-day Grillz Summer School with Melvin Faria and David Ogunleye
19 – 21 July & 3 August 2024

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Article by Karolina Brodnicka, Manager of K2 Academy

In anticipation of K2 Academy next Grillz course, we are delving into the little-known world of grillz! Leading this exclusive course is Melvin Faria, a young, skilled and accomplished London-based grillz maker, generously sharing his expertise and insider tips during the 3-day class. Being the only jewellery school in London and the only place on this side of the Atlantic that provides in-person grillz-making courses, K2 Academy is meeting the rising demand for practical training in this emerging niche.

I had the pleasure of interviewing Melvin Faria for this blog post to learn about his personal journey as a grillz maker, his perspectives on the industry, and what participants can expect from the course. Before we get to the interview, let’s first talk about the culture of grillz and the story behind the inception of the K2 grillz Course.

The tradition of adorning teeth, a practice dating back to ancient civilizations like the Egyptians, Mayans, and Etruscans, served as symbols of wealth and social status. In the 1990s, American rappers and Hip Hop artists popularised the practice with the introduction of grillz—jewellery pieces made of precious metals that sit on top of teeth, often adorned with gemstones and diamonds. Similar to the ancient practices, rappers wear grillz to make a statement about their lifestyle and identity, but also to express their distinctive personal style.

Musicians including Erykah Badu, Miley Cyrus, Madonna and celebrities like Kim Kardashian have propelled grillz from rap culture to the mainstream (you might have heard about the infamous diamond set of grillz that was stolen from Kim in the Paris robbery back in 2016). Despite initial scepticism from traditional jewellers dismissing them as a passing fad, the demand for grillz has surged, but are they here to stay? In 2020, a Hatton Garden casting company cast 200 grillz daily, which has since increased. grillz makers recognise that there is currently no sign of this sector slowing down; on the contrary, the demand has been steadily growing for years, along with the demand for grillz courses- a gap in the market that few seem to be filling.

This leads me to my own experience with grillz. I have always admired the bespoke and individualised nature of dental jewellery, particularly favouring the eccentric and bold designs worn by style icon Erykah Badu. These not only have a wow-factor but also convey the creativity and skill of the maker. Additionally, as a jeweller, incorporating grillz into my practice would serve as a subtle homage to my father's profession as a dentist.

Following some YouTube videos, I attempted to make a set of grillz from wax sheets, but I encountered technical issues that required guidance of a professional grillz maker. With no grillz courses available in London and online training priced beyond my means, I turned to my favourite casting company, AA Fine Casting, who introduced me to Melvin Faria as the grillz expert. Melvin's genuine enthusiasm for sharing his extensive knowledge earned him an opportunity to become a tutor for K2’s first grillz course! While K2’s directors, Kelvin Birk and Katrin Spranger, never considered adding a grillz-making course to the program, they quickly embraced the idea, resulting in two sold-out courses and a long list of participants from around the world eager to travel to London to take the course. This highlights the significant demand for quality in-person courses.

Course Participants proudly presenting their stunning grillz, job well done!

Interview with Melvin Faria

Karolina: Let's kick off with a question that's been on everyone's minds. Do you believe grillz are just a passing trend or are they going to stay in pop culture for good?

Melvin: I believe that grillz are here to stay because they are deeply ingrained in the culture, and their styles continually adapt and evolve over time. While they were once solely associated with rappers, for the past five to ten years, we've seen a surge in celebrities and musicians proudly displaying custom pieces on their teeth, even on the red carpet. This celebrity endorsement has significantly influenced the interest of everyday people in wearing grillz.

Karolina: How did you learn how to make grillz? Was it challenging to establish your brand and clientele?

Melvin: I picked up grillz-making skills from YouTube tutorials and dedicating many hours each week to practice. I started my social media page from scratch, with zero followers, and gradually grew my audience. It wasn't easy, but thanks to the uncompromised quality of my work, I've successfully built up a solid client base and gained recognition. I also make mouthguards for fighters, which is a smart way to broaden your income stream as grillz maker, by utilizing existing skills.

Karolina: Have you noticed any shifts in the industry since you launched your brand Mpire Gold in 2021? Has the demand for grillz surged since then?

Melvin: Absolutely, there have been several changes. Styles have evolved, and inflation has driven up certain material costs. The grillz market has become more crowded with makers, which has its pros and cons. However, there has been a significant increase in demand for teeth jewellery! My work has gained popularity due to my consistency and positive word-of-mouth referrals from satisfied friends who have used my services. I've earned a reputation for crafting perfectly fitted grillz that don't require adhesive to stay in place, a testament to the quality of my work compared to poorly made alternatives.

Karolina: I am aware that you travel abroad as well to see your clients. Are grillz made in the UK considered more valuable, or is it simply due to a scarcity of grillz makers in Europe outside of the UK?

Melvin: Yes, I appreciate the demand outside of the UK because the market isn't as saturated with jewellers. There's hardly any other grillz makers in Europe, so I saw this as an opportunity to fill a gap in the market. Of course, when pricing for clients abroad, you have to factor in shipping costs and currency conversion rates. We attract numerous international students to our course, many of whom are eager to travel abroad to take the course, because they recognise the opportunity to establish highly profitable grillz businesses in their home countries, where competition is minimal.

Karolina: What are the Top 5 celebrities you would like to make grillz for?

Melvin: Famous Musicians: Central Cee, Kanye West, Lil Durk, Pharrell Williams, Cardi B

Karolina: I believe many aspiring grillz makers are curious about the profit potential in this industry. How much do your customers spend on grillz?

Melvin: The price range for grillz varies, depending on choice of materials and styles, starting from £70 for a single silver cap and going up to £12,000 for the most elaborate pieces with stones. It all comes down to managing expenses effectively, such as finding the right casting prices and optimising material usage to enhance efficiency. Currently, around 70% of the revenue I receive from the grillz orders is profit.

Karolina: From what I've gathered, it seems like grillz-making is something you ‘learn from your mate’, as opposed to doing formal training. Why do you think there aren't any courses on this subject in London or even on this side of the Atlantic, despite the growing popularity of grillz?

Melvin: The grillz industry tends to be secretive, largely due to concerns about competition. Unfortunately, within the broader jewellery industry, grillz making is sometimes dismissed and not recognized as a legitimate skill. Despite the misconception that it's simple, crafting quality grillz comes with significant challenges, mostly when it comes to flawless fit. I'm pleased to provide expert guidance to my students in overcoming these complexities. I have top tips to offer to those who got stuck trying to figure it on their own. One thing that perplexes me is online courses promoting the use of wax sheets as a quick and easy way of making grillz. While it may make the process easier for beginners with zero experience, it often results in ill-fitting grillz of poor quality. My course is tailored for those aiming to take the professional approach, and we steer clear of using wax sheets. In our course, my friend David Ogunleye, the maker behind 18k Grillz, teaches the wax technique, as a master in this area. Meanwhile, I introduce the students to the resin method, an advanced and little known technique I learned from a German dentist. This approach guarantees a flawless fit every time, with no shrinkage during casting, although it may pose more challenges for some, as it’s less forgiving than wax. Certain grillz styles lend themselves better to wax, while others to resin. Ultimately, the choice between techniques boils down to personal preference and skill level. Interestingly, our students have been split 50/50 when it comes to preference between the two techniques, highlighting the value of introducing them to both options!

Karolina: When it comes to the course, what else can participants anticipate?

Melvin: Participants can expect to gain a wealth of knowledge from my expertise. Our classes are designed to be enjoyable and supportive, providing room for trial and error until we get it right together. You'll learn how to set yourself apart from other grillz makers in the industry by creating top-quality, perfectly fitted grillz finished to the highest standard. I only wish I had such an opportunity for learning when I was starting out, instead of having to test 10 polishing compounds on my own just to find the perfect finish!

Karolina: Is there a reason why complete beginners are unable to join this course, which requires basic jewellery making skills?

Melvin: This course is very fast paced, covering a substantial amount of knowledge and practice within a tight 3-day timeframe. If we were to accommodate beginners, we'd need additional time to familiarize them with tools such as the pendant motor, piercing saws, and hand files. This adjustment would inevitably extend the course duration, resulting in higher costs. Our aim is to keep the course fair and affordable for all participants. The prior experience and practice that students gain from introductory jewellery making classes significantly enhance their confidence and proficiency with the tools, allowing them to make the most of the Grillz Course. Furthermore, an understanding of traditional jewellery making complements the skills of a grillz maker. Personally, I pursued a jewellery making course last year, which greatly expanded my capabilities and made me a more versatile grillz maker. Being able to craft other forms of jewellery such as pendants and rings has been a valuable asset, fulfilling requests from grillz clients. Proficiency in jewellery making opens up numerous business opportunities beyond just grillz. Therefore, I strongly advocate for grillz makers to broaden their jewellery education. K2 Academy offers evening and weekend beginner-friendly jewellery workshops, which have received positive feedback from the multiple participants who took them in preparation for the Grillz Course. Many have discovered a newfound passion for jewellery making and expressed intentions to explore it further alongside their grillz business endeavours, which I wholeheartedly support.

Karolina: Thank you for your insights and your contribution to the education of the next generations of grillz makers, Melvin. Looking forward to the next course!